So now I’m in Rome, and the kayaking trip is over. It was a great trip. We started in Naples - not my favorite city, but I wasn’t there long - and saw Pompeii. I’ve been there once before, but I definitely think it’s a site one can visit again and again. Unfortunately, the guide this time was saying things that conflicted with what the guide last time said, but I think I believe the earlier guide. For example, in Pompeii, some of the streets have these stepping-stone-like-things in the streets. They are spaced such that a chariot could pass through them, but also a pedestrian could walk across them without stepping down into the street. The previous guide said they were for crossing, as the street was the drainage path and thus one wouldn’t want to step in it. This guide said it was for military defense, as non-Roman chariots would have different axel lengths between their wheels, which I find hard to believe in this case for many reasons.
Anyways, we then strolled around Sorrento, which is a pretty little town. Our hotel was quite near a beach, but some people (me included) had thought it would be closer when looking on its website. Instead we enjoyed our view of laundry drying in the alley. Oh well. We kayaked along the coast of Sorrento the next day, which was quite pretty. There are a multitude of switchback steps down to the water from atop the cliffs, and columns and towers, but unfortunately it also seems to get a lot of the trash from Naples, so the water near the coast is a bit littered.
We took the ferry to Capri, where we stayed in a terrific hotel near Marina Picolo (on the far side of the island from the ferry dock), Hotel Weber. There was a great little beach down some stairs, or a pool at the hotel. On the next day we kayaked around the island, which is about 12 miles, the longest day, but broken up with a cappuccino stop and a lunch stop. At the cappuccino stop, one of the other trip participants, Nina, spoke with a lady up at the restaurant. The lady said she was a psychologist, and complained that she was having a terrible time on her vacation because she was with another lady who had multiple personalities. She said the other lady was down at the beach. Later, when Nina was heading down to the beach, the “psychologist” was heading back up, and when Nina wished her well for the rest of her trip, the “psychologist” looked at Nina as if she didn’t recognize her and then spoke in a completely different voice. Needless to say, Nina got quickly back to the beach and into her kayak.
We ate at a terrific restaurant in Capri called Il Grotello, I think. It was a bit of a walk (there was some debate as to whether it qualified as a hike) from the main town, but well worth it. The next day, we were supposed to kayak back to the mainland. The seas were fairly choppy, but a small set of us set off to paddle. When we got about 1/4 of the way around the island, our guide, Keith, heard thunderstorm predictions over his radio. We had already been debating whether to cross in those conditions (”only” a 4-5 on the Beaufort scale, but in a kayak looking across a 6 mile crossing that seems pretty big…), so we pretty quickly started heading for harbor and ended up taking the ferry across.
We stayed in a hotel in Marina del Cantone, which apparently has a large number of hikes around it. We kayaked back toward Capri a bit to a little out of the way beach, which was a nice place to spend the midday. I even got to try to practice my Italian speaking to a guy who was there with the people he served in the military with who get together every year even 40 years later. Later, we hiked over to Recommone, where there was an absolutely positively spectacular restaurant/hotel (7 rooms) called Il Conca del Sogno. It seems like it might be a splendid place to just relax for a few days and have some great food.
The next day, again, we were supposed to kayak the coast down to Positano, but thunderstorms were passing through, and being the highest point in the water during a lightning storm is not a great idea. Instead we ended up with extra time to wander around Positano. The hotel we stayed at there was right on the beach, which was terrific once the weather cleared up in the afternoon. Also, Positano is a very pretty little town to wander, and, like everywhere in Italy, has some great food, so the day was not lost.
On our last day, we did actually kayak to Amalfi. There were some windy points, but we had a cappuccino break partway through, and then after rounding the point we went under this arch which some people climbed up and jumped off of and relaxed for a bit. In the evening, after wandering Amalfi for a bit, we drove up to Ravello, which has a great central square with small streets winding off it and views down to the coast. We had dinner and then went to a violin & piano concert. Personally, I thought the players seemed talented, but the compositions were a bit too discordant and strange for me, except for the encore. I may also have been influenced by the fact that it was inside and not air-conditioned (or not well, if at all).
Now, as I said, I’m in Rome. Rome never gets old. My feet, though, won’t be able to take too much more walking around. Wednesday morning, I will hopefully catch a flight to Barcelona, and then to New York, bringing my trek in Europe to a close. Till then, I think there are some more ruins and a piazza or two to see.